Modern Device Forum

Dan I am using a Wind Sensor Rev.P with an Arduino MEGA 2560 R3. I am powering the sensor from 12.4V. I have noticed with the sensor sitting on my desk in a breadboard, oriented vertically, I regularly see speeds around 1.22 mph without any fans operating. With an 80mm DC fan operating, I see around...

Henk, You should obviously cover the electronics package with something waterproof. My guess is that the sensing elements may not last too long though, out in the weather. Water plus electricity equals electrolytic reactions and corrosion. You could try spraying the sensing elements with some kind o...

Which sensor Rev P or Rev C? I suggest a regulated 5 volt (preferred) or 6 volt supply. If the output isn't stable with a regulated 5 volt supply, then the sensor is defective and needs to be replaced. You can use a battery but the current draw ~30 mA is substantial and will kill a battery in known ...

The sensor is designed to maintain hot sensor at about 75C above the ambient sensor. In order for it to work, the circuit must have the voltage and current to heat up the sensor to balance the bridge. Current draw will range from 35 mA perhaps up to 120 mA or more in very windy conditions. One issue...

Tazling, There is a schematic of the board on Github - but you could be forgiven if you are confused by it - EagleCad schematics are often somewhat confusing as to the headers. a) is the BBleo supposed to power the bboard rail, or be powered by it? Power it - for use in sensors b) if the rail is liv...

We don't sell it, please try digikey or mouser.

Paul

That seems to be a telescope driver? You want to make sounds for telescope interface?
You'll need to be able send MIDI info which just involves serial information at the correct baud rate. The rest is picking the characters.

We can't really support other people's hardware, especially without schematics and datasheets. My guess is that the sensor is just an analog output - it may be just a raw piezo element which you would need to condition with an op amp. From the discussion I read online that's exactly the case. They d...

jhornbr225,

The 3.3V signal won't hurt anything. It should work fine if you power from 5V. If you power from 3.3V then there it may or may not work depending on the generation of chip in the LCD117.
Make sure you use a 3.3V LCD or you won't know if the LCD117 is working.

Paul

The LCD 117 SMD version has a schematic.
I believe I designed the LCD117 from a hand drawn schematic of Peter Anderson.

Brian Riley at Wulfden has a similar but not completely identical. The schematic may be found here
wulfden.org/downloads/manuals/K107manual.pdf

Pin 13 is PB7

glata123, the problem is your voltage divider, the high values you are using limit your current to about .3 mA not a useful amount of current. Your simplest solution is just to buy a 3,3V regulator. If you want to know how the math works, read through voltage dividers in the Art of Electronics or fi...

ladyk, Are you using the sensor in an enclosed space by any chance? Also is the sensor seeing only very small wind velocities? I'm thinking that there may be some thermal buildup going on somewhere. For the sketch to work in a calibrated fashion, it's important to use the RV (raw output) and not use...

JaseSerre,

You can check out the branch of our library at https://github.com/TJC/SI1143_Pulse_Prox_Sensors which will work with a Teensy I believe. I'm trying to get pulled into the Modern Device repo.

Paul

LimesPone, The problem is the 7805, that voltage drop is about right for that device. Grab a more modern LDO such as a LM2940 or LM9931 (5v model) and put it in and you'll be fine. However you need to carefully check the inputs and outputs with a meter and compare to the pinout of the device you are...

jhornbr225, Unfortunately I don't think we brought out a connection for the buzzer pin - the docs say pin 6 but I think I remember that this is PIC pin 6. You could code the buzzer in a tight loop then use a small speak in series with an electrolytic cap to probe the pins with - to quickly locate th...

#1 - Will it work properly? Is the 3.3V enough to be considered a "High" level? Yes - as long as 3.3V is solid - I think it will work fine. There are also some things to try if this turns out to be problematic, such as a level shift chip. #2 - Will it damage anything? No Good luck with it....

JHornbr225,

I believe we tested the LCD117 at 3.3V and it ran fine.
You would need a 3.3V LCD - which we have in the shop BTW.
Most of them are pretty flaky at low voltage.

Paul

sandman,

You need to use our Arduino sketch that has software temp compensation. It's not that great but much better than no compensation.

We're still working on new models and new data.

Vicengineer,

If you're still listening, maybe call us if you haven't already.

Paul

Mike,

I think I answered this in another post.
Scale the windADunits appropriately 3.3/5.0

Paul